Here in NZ the winter been is just a sweet memory (a little blurred but pretty sweet) and with the first day of summer upon us the next NZ winter is a long way off. This really leaves us no choice, it’s time to go over seas! Europe, the US, Canada, Japan, trying to choose where to go is kinda like being a kid in a candy store. The last option Japan is a sure shot, tons of powder, great food and with the NZ dollar strong against the Yen there’s nothing to do but save that cash and get on it! The following is a story taken from one of last years issues and gives you a low down on some areas in the Hokkaido region Niseko, Furano and Sapporo.

Niseko ticks all the powder boxes and as such it absorbs tens of thousands of international visitors every season. Snow wise it’s one of the most consistent destinations anywhere, it has the best park and pipe on the island and arguably the best night riding in the world. It may be the most accessible resort area in Japan as the language barrier isn’t an issue at all (everyone speaks Australian), while accommodation options cater for every budget and are located close to the lifts. Although the area is popular it’s also pretty big, there are three linked ski areas each with its own gondola and spider webbing lift system, so despite its popularity you can still access plenty of freshies!

JW making the most of another epic pow day on Hokkaido’s Kuro Dake . Photo © simon ramsay

In recent years Furano has also gained popularity and although it generally gets less snow than Niseko it tends to be colder, the powder drier and the terrain steeper. If backcountry is your thing check out the hiking and road runs on nearby Tokachi Dake. Furano is also a good place to be based if you want to explore the Daisetsusan area. Within this mountain range you’ll find the tallest mountain in Hokkaido, Asahidake an active volcano, and Kurodake that has some of the gnarliest riding on the island. These areas on Hokkaido’s central plateau are frigidly cold so don’t forget the puffer and thermals! If you’re keen to check out the Daisetsusan area, the city of Asahikawa or the hot spring village of Sounkyo are good options for accommodation, and the smaller, lesser known but super fun Kamui Ski Links is also easily accessible on the way to or from Sapporo.

Sapporo is the largest city in Hokkaido and strangely one of the areas least populated by winter tourists. It’s a great spot; you can hang out in the city, ride relatively uncrowded resorts, eat incredible food and if you’re down, party till the sun comes up. Resorts here include Sapporo Kokusai, Teine and Kiroro. It’s also an easy drive to Rusutsu, a resort that comes complete with an amusement park, pools and plush hotels. You’d be amazed how many people come away from Rusutsu calling “the best day ever!”

Sapporo is also where you’ll find Chitose Airport, the gateway to your powdery dreams. From here you can easily catch a bus or train to Niseko and it’s just a 35-minute train ride to Sapporo Station in the heart of the city. To reach Sapporo from New Zealand you’ll need to fly into Narita in Tokyo, or Kansai in Osaka, and then make the 1hr flight to Chitose, which most carriers service. If you want to sort your own domestic flight try Air Do, Sky Mark or Peach. You can also get to Sapporo from Honshu (the main southern island) by train, which involves a large under sea tunnel and is a good option if you have a Japan Rail Pass.

Rail passes can be great if you want to explore the southern island of Honshu and access places like Nagano or Nigata before travelling north to Hokkaido by train. The passes allow you to pay a specified amount for unlimited travel within a specific time frame and can work out to be pretty good value if you cover a lot of K’s. You need to buy these from outside Japan so check www.japanrailpass.net for more info. Public transport all over Japan is super reliable and efficient, especially in the cities. Sapporo has a great subway system and buses and trains can be caught to and from every imaginable destination in Hokkaido. Travel on trains can be expensive so if you’re on a budget it’s best to stick to the ‘local trains’ or buses.

Rental cars are a great option for Hokkaido and are available from the usual airport outlets, and from Niseko vendors such as Rhythm Sports and Black Diamond Tours who are easily found online. If you do get a rental, bare in mind you’ll be driving on snow and ice and more than likely in a blizzard most of the time. Travel on the road can be slow and treacherous, the speed limit on the open road is 80km and don’t forget your international drivers license as you can’t rent a car without one.

Generally accommodation is best booked online before you leave, this is especially important if you’re planning to hit Niseko anytime between Christmas and mid Feb, as it can get pretty busy. There are a number of online booking sites for Niseko and Furano and most will be run by foreigners or have English speaking staff. holidayniseko.com or bdlodge.com are good places to start. Accommodation in Sapporo, Asahikawa and Sounkyo can be freestyled a little more but expect to pay no less than NZD $80 per night. Take care during the Sapporo Snow Festival, which next year runs 5-11 Feb and is an event well worth checking out, as the cities hotels are often fully booked.

If you do stay in Sapporo make sure you eat as much delicious stuff as you can, the place teems with restaurants and eateries, and is known for its miso ramen, soup curry, crab, salmon and of course sushi. Kaiten sushi (sushi train) is a must do, if you’re near Sapporo Station there’s a good one on the top floor of the ESTA building, and downstairs you’ll also find all the electronics and massage chairs imaginable. In every Hokkaido city or town you can find ramen and soba shops that will keep you fed for under a tenner, and for a food and bevvy type deal seek out a Yakiniku restaurant where as a group you BBQ your own meat and wash it down with something bubbly and cold. For food on the go you can’t go past convenience stores jam-packed with instant food, most of which can be microwaved on the spot.

In areas such as Niseko, après shred is similar to many resort towns, and I hear Australia Day there is a night to behold. But one of the greatest and most unique après activity on offer in Niseko and at most Japanese resorts are onsens, or hot springs. These geothermal hot springs are tapped, harnessed and presented in a wide range of baths and pools. Onsens are usually separated by gender and are enjoyed nude with the aid of a modesty towel. There’s simply no better way to relax after a full day or night’s shredding. One of the greatest onsen experiences can be had at the top of Tokachi Dake where you can bathe under the stars in ochre stained water whilst gazing out at epic backcountry terrain with a beer in hand.

As well as the resorts and areas mentioned above there are scores of smaller resorts dotted all over Hokkaido, many of them very small and not worth mentioning, but there are some gems including super resorts like Sahoro and Tomamu. At almost all resorts the standard price for a full day are about NZD $60, but some of the smaller resorts are a bit cheaper and most places offer half day and night rates. For those wanting to hike, opportunities abound, and although sub zero temps generally keep the snow pack pretty stable the usual precautions must be taken. Without a doubt a trip to Hokkaido or almost any ski resort in Japan is one you’ll never forget, the snow is unreal and if you’re there somewhere between Christmas and March it’s quite likely it will snow everyday of your trip, even if you’re there for a month!